Adventurous: From Masset to Skidegate, Part 1

Haida Gwaii figures prominently on many a Canadian bucket list.

How do I know this? Because I’ve heard “omg, I’m soooooo jealoussss!!!” accompanied by a pained yet hopeful expression from pretty much anyone I’ve told about my trip.

Yes, Haida Gwaii (formerly the Queen Charlotte Islands) is HAWT. Now allow me to stoke those flames even more by recounting my recent journey from Masset to Skidegate:

This is Sarah’s Haida Arts in Masset. This arts/crafts/t-shirt emporium is so big, it’s basically a Wal-Mart compared to the other shops on Haida Gwaii. But without the crap factor, naturally.

Sarah’s carries a trove of Haida art pieces, at a variety of prices. It’s a good place to start if you know you want a souvenir, but haven’t quite decided whether you want a paddle, a killer whale necklace or a woven bark hat like the one David wore in my “Meet a Haida Watchman” post.

Christian White is a prominent Haida artist, and his studio is just a stone’s throw from Sarah’s. He has lived on Haida Gwaii all his life.

Christian has fond early memories of living simply off the land and following the seasons. He strives to continue those traditions and pass them on to the younger generations: things like fishing, hunting deer, gathering wild berries and picking seaweed for use in chowders.

White is a prolific artist, having carved multiple totem poles in the area in addition to his smaller works. A lot of his pieces are sold in Europe and New York.

Above is a really cute little raven mask he is currently making for his two-year-old grandson. When White spoke about the grandson, you could really see the love shining in his eyes.

This pendant is made from argillite, a rare black slate found on Haida Gwaii.

A recurring theme on Haida Gwaii is the whimsical little forest house – the kind of abode that seems designed for fairies and gnomes. Or, better yet, the children from an illicit fairy-gnome tryst.

Fortunately, this one is open to the public: The Trout House Restaurant and Bakery. You can poke around inside without feeling like a gnome-stalker.

I highly recommend the veggie-friendly poutine, made with mushrooms and goat cheese.

What’s this, then? Another gnome sweet home? Yep.

It’s the Moon Over Naikoon Bakery, which lures customers in with – not neon lights –  whale skulls (can you spot ‘em?)

Finally, in terms of resting your head for the night, you can either get yourself a big tuft of moss for a pillow and snooze in the woods, OR check in to the Copper Beech House in Masset.

You know I love a place with character and/or fish-shaped bowls on the table, so I was quite delighted with this guesthouse, which is owned by author Susan Musgrave. I didn’t get to meet her this time around, and seeing as how she is referred to as “the wild sea-witch of Canada’s northwest coast” in this bio, I feel that’s quite a shame.

I did, however, meet this darling girl named Kayley, who acted as host and prepared a magnificent al-fresco dinner.

This is probably the first time I really wished I wasn’t allergic to salmon. But wishing won’t fend off hives, so I settled for simply taking a tasty picture.

Update: READ PART TWO HERE!